Famagusta (Gazimağusa) rewards a slow day. Inside the Venetian walls you walk from a Gothic cathedral turned mosque to a sea castle in about fifteen minutes, and ten minutes up the coast the ruined Roman city of Salamis runs down to an empty beach. It is the densest concentration of history in North Cyprus, and it is hot, open and short on shade. Here is a walking order for the old city, what lies outside it, and how to time the day.

The walled old city, in walking order

Start at the Land Gate and the Ravelin on the western side, the bastion the Venetians rebuilt as the main landward defence. Climbing it first gives you the shape of everything else — the walls, the roofs, the sea. Then walk east to the centre.

You come out in the square before the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, the former Cathedral of St Nicholas: a French Gothic cathedral begun in the fourteenth century, where the Lusignan kings were crowned kings of Jerusalem. A minaret was added to one tower after 1571 and it has been a mosque since. The west front, with its three portals and rose window, is the finest architecture on the island. Visit outside prayer times, and remove shoes at the door.

Around the square sit the Venetian loggia, the Namık Kemal dungeon and cafes under trees — the one properly shaded spot in the old city, so break here.

Walk north-east to Othello Castle, the Lusignan citadel the Venetians reshaped, named for the Shakespeare play set in a port of Cyprus. Inside is mostly bare stone, but the great hall is cool and the ramparts look down into the harbour.

Loop back through the roofless Gothic churches between the houses — the largest survivor is the Sinan Pasha Mosque, formerly St Peter and St Paul — and leave by the Sea Gate, with its Venetian lion.

Salamis and the Royal Tombs

About ten minutes north, Salamis is the ruined capital of ancient Cyprus, spread over pine and sand down to the shore. The gymnasium with its colonnade and statues, the Roman theatre, the baths and the basilicas are the set pieces. The site is large, flat and almost unshaded: allow two hours, take water, and wear real shoes for the broken paving.

A short drive inland are the Royal Tombs, the burial ground of Salamis, where chariots and horses were buried in the entrance ramps of the chamber tombs. Smaller and quieter than the main site.

St Barnabas Monastery

Close by, the Monastery of St Barnabas stands over the traditional tomb of the apostle. The buildings hold an icon collection and an archaeological collection around a courtyard with palms and a well — small, shaded and cool.

The beaches of Famagusta Bay

The bay curves north from the city in a long line of sand. Three stretches are the ones people use:

  • Glapsides Beach — closest to town, wide and sandy, with beach clubs and food. Busy at weekends.
  • Silver Beach — beside the Salamis site, quieter, shallow water and a simple beach restaurant. Good for ruins in the morning and a swim after.
  • Palm Beach — at the southern end of the bay, next to the fenced quarter of Varosha (Kapalı Maraş), with the empty high-rises behind the sand.

Varosha is a fenced-off district of Famagusta, closed since 1974. Part of it has been opened to visitors, who may walk or cycle along marked routes through some of the streets; the rest remains behind the fence.

Timing, heat and shade

From May to September, do the open sites early. Salamis and the walls are best before about eleven; the narrow streets keep some shade until midday, and the monastery and museums are comfortable at any hour. Between roughly one and four, be on a beach or indoors.

A full day covering the old city, Salamis and a beach is a lot of moving in the heat. Many visitors from Kyrenia, Long Beach or Nicosia book a car for the day: the chauffeur drops you at the Land Gate, collects you at the Sea Gate and runs you out to Salamis and the beach, at a fixed price.

Frequently asked questions

How long do I need in Famagusta?

A half day covers the walled city on foot. A full day adds Salamis, the Royal Tombs, St Barnabas and a swim in the bay.

Can you walk around the old city?

Yes, and it is the best way to see it. The walled area is compact and flat, and the main sights are about fifteen minutes apart on foot. Bring shoes with grip for the old stone.

Can visitors go into Varosha?

Part of the quarter is open on foot and by bicycle along marked routes. The rest stays behind the fence, and entering the buildings is not permitted.

Is there shade at Salamis?

Very little — open ground with pines only at the edges. Go early or late, carry water and use a hat.

What is the easiest way to reach Famagusta?

By road — roughly 45 minutes from Ercan Airport, about an hour from Kyrenia and around 20 minutes from Long Beach. A full-day hire keeps the same chauffeur with you between the sites.

Planning a day in Famagusta? See fixed prices or book a car for the day.